Pakistan Holidays

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Kalash

The Kalash live in the high pastures of the Hindu Kush flanking the Chitral valley of North Western Pakistan. For millennia they have lived here in isolation and even today the newly constructed road is barely passable. It is unsurprising that these people have remained largely undiscovered since the time of Alexander.

 

The non-Muslim Kalash have a culture very drastically from the all the ethnic groups that surround them; nature plays a central role in their daily and spiritual life. As part of their religious tradition, sacrifices are offered and festivals held to give thanks for the abundant resources of their three valleys. Kalash mythology and folklore has been compared to that of ancient Greece but they are much closer to the that of the ancient Persians.

Whilst historically the Kalash may have lived across large swathes of NW Pakistan and Afghanistan, today they live in only three valleys: Rombir, Birir and Bumboret which are connected together by 3000m routes passable only on foot.  Despite the altitude the region is extremely fertile, covered in rich oak forests and allowing for intensive agriculture, even though most of the work is still done by hand. Each valley has a powerful river that has for hundreds of years been harnessed to power grinding mills and to water the fields through the use of ingenious irrigation channels. Apples, apricots and walnuts are among the many foodstuffs grown in the area. The climate is typical of high elevation regions the summers are mild and agreeable with average maximum temperatures between 23° and 27°C (73° - 81°F). Winters, on the other hand, can be very cold, with average minimum temperatures between 2° and 1°C (36° - 34°F). The average yearly precipitation is 700 to 800 mm (28 - 32 inches).

KJTI’s tour takes in Brum, which  is the main village in the Rombir valley. Entry to the valley is through a very narrow and precipitous jeep track but when you will be glad you survived it, as our twenty year relationship with the people of this village will mean that you will be made to feel part of everyday life. You will enjoy a traditional Kalash meal and an early night in a simple cabin in the middle of the village.  You may also meet our old friend, the venerable Saifullah Jan the chief of the three valleys.

 

KJTI tourist’s quotes:

“What really makes the Kalash stand out is their liberal attitude to women and the colourful clothes that the women and girls wear. They usually wear black dresses covered by incredibly colourful beaded necklaces and headdresses. The drab black and brown was the traditional wear till much cheaper colourful materials and beads became available at the end of the 19th century and the Kalash adopted this with gusto. The colourful dresses are in no way just put on for tourists, this is genuinely the every-day wear; doesn’t make them any less photogenic though. Obviously they wanted to sell us some handicrafts. These were absolutely lovely and much time and effort had gone into their making.  We were the only tourists here.

 

They are extremely friendly and although our guest house was quite basic it was the best accommodation they had in the village and we genuinely considered it an honour and a privilege to be able to stay there.

 

We realised that it didn’t do to enquire too carefully how/where the cooking pots were washed or where the water for cooking came from, but we always felt we were given the best they had, and we never got ill – a mantra it is well worth repeating. Both mornings we were there we had honey for breakfast – not the refined and centrifuged stuff, but honey freshly collected from a nest up a tree, in the mountains and complete with honey comb and ‘bits’. The Kalash attitude to agriculture other than the growing of wheat or maize is interesting. They just pick and eat where it grows.  They don’t cultivate.  In this way we ate our fill of very fresh walnuts, grapes, mulberries and apricots – they just don’t actually cultivate them in the way we would understand the term. In summer, some of the men take the herds of goats high up into the mountains. Goats are most useful as they are a source of wool, meat, milk and cheese and they will eat anything.

 

We were taken on a tour of the village which involved going up to one of the male temples. Kalash beliefs are interesting – everything is either ‘pure’ or ‘impure’. Men are ‘pure’, women are ‘impure’. Each has their own roles and responsibilities, fields to tend and jobs, and the two do not mix. Likewise, there are ‘male’ temples and ‘female’ temples.”

 

This place is a stunningly picturesque village of about 60 stone and wood houses on a small stream that in turn flows into the main river of the valley. The stream itself is used for everything – washing self/clothes/pots, drinking water for goats and sheep and water for cooking; it even flows under our guesthouse. The guesthouse has been relatively recently built by the chief of the village.

 

BBC News | In pictures Kalash spring festival

 

Adventure Travel in North Pakistan  http://www.kjti.co.uk/

 

 

 

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